Last weekend I went with some friends from the rock gym to check it out. While almost every route has bolts in place for sport climbing, the setting is not ideal for lead climbing. The walls are rugged and many of the rocks lie in different planes. This makes falling on lead a huge risk for injury, sprained ankles in particular. But thankfully, it is the ideal situation for top roping.
If you follow the approach trail to the end, a light scramble will lead you to the top of the cliffs. There are plenty of bolts that allow you to set up anchors that make any route available for top roping. The routes range from <5.7 to 5.11, so if you're wanting to try outdoor climbing for the first time, this is a great place to do so.
As you climb, don't forget to turn and take in the peaceful view behind you. It's a bouquet of earthy colors- the blue shade of the mountains, the lake's sparkling green, and the brown outline of the bank. But one thing stands out among the rest: the unmistakable view of Pilot Rock towering over the hills of the State of Jefferson.
Access: Heading South on I-5, take the second Ashland exit and follow signs to Emigrant Lake. After entering the park, follow the road into the campground. At the end of the campground there's a parking area in front of the approach trail head. Follow the trail along the waterline until you reach the rocks. The easy routes are further up the hill, while the more difficult routes are on the waterline.
There is a $4 parking fee.
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